D56 -- Monsoon hiking

Wake up time was 6:30 this morning. Ah, vacation. It was raining steadily when we set out for Sandfly Point, the last leg of the track. And it kept on raining. And raining. And… you get the point. After the first couple of miles our boots were soaked from the rain seeping in through our socks and from stepping in puddles. It was miserable but we managed to keep our spirits up because there were so many beautiful waterfalls to look at. Every mountain had waterfalls streaming down its sides, as if it were erupting water. The waterfalls were too numerous to count, and some of them had so many tributaries they seemed more like tree roots than waterfalls. Our guide Neil said that most of them are only present when it rains, so in a way we were lucky to be trudging through a downpour.

We got to a rest hut about 5 miles in, where our guides were waiting with a heater and soup. (Bless their hearts!) We took off our shoes and wrung out our socks. About ¼ cup of water came out of each of Thomas’ boots. The weather never improved, and in fact the rain seemed to get steadily worse. We knew that there were two boats out at the end of the trail, and although we had been among the last hikers to leave this morning, we decided that we were going to make darn sure we caught the first boat. We were on a mission! We ended up passing a lot of our fellow hikers, only stopping briefly to appreciate some of the more stunning waterfalls.

Around mile marker 29 ½ we came to a raging stream, probably 12 feet across. Aussies Ted and Janet were waiting on the other side for their friend Bill, who was the only one of the older Aussies that had some difficulties with the terrain. It was a good thing they were there – the water was up to our knees and was rushing so fast that we couldn’t see the ground and therefore couldn’t place our feet with any confidence, a big problem given the rocks and tree limbs. It was also hard to get a secure footing because the current was so strong. We held hands as we crossed and then Ted took our hands when we got to the middle. They continued waiting for Bill while we rushed ahead to the lunch shelter to tell the guides that the crossing was getting a bit out of control. We passed through several smaller streams, and walked over a wooden bridge that was under about 4 inches of water. A bridge for heaven’s sake! When we got there Junko said she hadn’t received a call to close the trail so we’d have to keep going. Luckily Bill made it across fine, but we worried that the water would get worse and some of the later hikers would have problems.

All of us at the lunch spot were determined to make the first boat, so we commiserated for just a few minutes while we wolfed down our food and then set off. Thomas and I hiked with Aussie Max for a while (in the red cap on the right) but couldn’t keep up with him for long. He was fast! After 13 miles, we finally reached Sandfly Point, cold and drenched but glad to be in time for the boat. We huddled around the heater and had some soup while we waited for the boat. Once it came, the ride was short and stunning. We could see dozens of waterfalls emptying into Millford Sound, and one (Lady Bowen Falls) was absolutely raging. The water falling was so powerful that it sent spray halfway back up the falls. We arrived at the lodge and were assigned our private room (yeah). We were delighted to learn that there was free washing/drying machines at the lodge, and so we wasted no time shedding our wet clothes and starting a load. Hot showers followed, and they were great. After my shower I took a look at my feet. Eek! The blisters had doubled in size and my toenail was a grim sight. To protect my foot-phobic friends I haven't put pictures on the blog, but if you want to be grossed out, click here!

We went upstairs for predinner appetizers, and then a little ceremony where we all received certificates. Very fun. We enjoyed our last dinner with some of our new friends (Thomas particularly enjoyed dessert), and then went to the pub next door to continue the well-deserved celebration. We did it!

-Elva